ダイヤモンドのカットはこう選ぼう!選ぶべきポイントを詳しく解説

How to choose a diamond cut! Detailed explanation of the points to choose



Cutting is the only one of the 4Cs that involves human skill..
As its name suggests, diamonds possess an "eternal brilliance," a high refractive index that gives off a fine, sparkling sparkle. However, they don't sparkle in their raw, unpolished state. The challenge lies in how much brilliance can be extracted from diamonds, the hardest mineral on Earth. It truly is a testament to human ingenuity.
In addition to the perfectly round round brilliant cut, diamonds come in many other cuts. This article will introduce you to different diamond cuts, so please use it as a reference when choosing your next diamond.



1. CutWhat is that?

① Cut evaluation criteria (Cut evaluation is only for round brilliant cuts!)

CutAn important element that represents brillianceSo, the round shapeRound brilliant cut onlyThe evaluation will be based on this. Please note that there are no cutting standards for other shapes.
A cut is generally evaluated based on three main factors: overall balance and proportion, symmetry, and polish.
Proportions are measured numerically by a computer, while symmetry and polish are evaluated by the human eye.

GIA鑑定書

If the appraisal report is issued by a major appraisal institution, the numerical measurement results of the proportions will be shown in a diagram within the report. The polish and symmetry will also be clearly evaluated, and the cut evaluation will be determined by this overall evaluation.
The cut grade is evaluated on a 5-point scale.Shine is almost perfect. Excellent → Very good. Very Good → Good. Good → Fair → Poor. This is how it works. Symmetry and polish are evaluated in the same way. If both are Very Good or better, the cut grade will be Excellent. Furthermore, if the cut, symmetry, and polish are all Excellent, it will be 3EX (Triple Excellent), which is the highest class in terms of cut standards.

ダイヤのカットグレード表


② What is Heart and Cupid (H&C)?

When a diamond with excellent proportions and symmetry is viewed through a special scope, eight arrows (Cupid's arrows) may be visible from the table (top) face, and eight hearts may be visible from the pavilion (bottom) face. The Central Gem Laboratory (CGL) holds a patent for Hearts and Cupid (H&C), which has led to its widespread adoption. Other gemological laboratories refer to it as Hearts and Arrows (H&A). When an H&C is appraised by a gemological laboratory, photographs of the hearts and arrows are included in the appraisal report.
Some salons claim that H&C (Heart and Cut) is the best cut, but this is a misunderstanding. H&C can be seen even if the cut standard is not excellent, as long as it has a certain range of proportions and a certain level of symmetry.The highest cut standard is 3EX.Therefore, H&C is positioned as an added value.
However, "an arrow piercing the heart"—it's romantic, isn't it? H&C and H&A are not checked unless you specifically request them during the appraisal process. Also, they become invisible once the diamond is set in a setting, so if you want a photo of the H&C, be sure to ask when purchasing the loose diamond.

CGL鑑定書

Our company primarily handles GIA-certified diamonds, but we also carry H&C (Hearts and Arrows) diamonds from the Central Gem Laboratory. Please refer to this page for information on our current stock.

▼H&C diamonds in stock at Hojudo

▼Diamonds in stock at Hojudo

Even if the diamond you're looking for isn't listed on the Hojudo website, we can search for it for you free of charge, so please don't hesitate to let us know if you have any requests.

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③ Types of diamond cuts

Do you think diamonds only come in a round cut? While the round brilliant cut is the cut that brings out the most brilliance, there are actually many different types of cuts. Cuts other than the round brilliant cut are called fancy cuts. We will introduce some of the fancy cuts, so please take a look for reference.
ラウンドブリリアントカット

Round brilliant cut
This is the cut that you all have in mind.Perfect circleThis is a round brilliant cut. It's a meticulously calculated cut with a total of 57 or 58 facets to maximize its brilliance. The 4Cs only consider this round brilliant cut as a standard cut.

オーバルカット

Oval cut
roundedovalThe oval cut is characterized by its shape. Setting the diamond vertically creates a refined and elegant look, while setting it horizontally gives it a more casual feel. Because it's an oval, the ratio of the vertical to horizontal lengths varies. The appearance changes significantly depending on the ratio of the lengths, so be careful.

ペアシェイプ

Pear Shape
pearBecause of its shape, it's called a pear shape. On the other hand, it also resembles the shape of a teardrop, so it's sometimes called a teardrop cut. With one end pointed and the other rounded, it's a popular cut among women because it makes fingers look slender and long, giving a feminine look. When worn as a ring, the pointed end is usually worn facing downwards, but recently, many people are enjoying wearing it with the pointed end facing upwards.

マーキースシェイプ

Marquise Shape
A vertically elongated shape with pointed ends.This is a marquise-shaped gemstone. Due to its shape, it is often used in jewelry with flower petal motifs.Marquise means "Marquise," and it is said that Louis XV bestowed the title of Marquise upon Madame de Pompadour, and the name was inspired by her smile. Its pointed, elongated shape makes fingers look slender and sharp, making it ideal for those with long fingers.

ハートシェイプ

Heart shape
As the name suggests,heart shapeA heart-shaped design. This cut gives a feminine impression and is popular among young women.

クッションシェイプ

Cushion Shape
A square shape with rounded corners.This is a cushion-shaped hairstyle. Because of its pillow-like shape, it's also called a pillow cut. In fact, it was the dominant cut from the 16th century until the early 20th century. It gives a soft and feminine impression. There are both nearly square cushion shapes and rectangular shapes. The atmosphere changes depending on the shape, so choose according to your preference.

エメラルドカット

Emerald cut
Up until now, all the cuts have been brilliant cuts, which emphasize brilliance and give a dazzling impression, but the emerald cut is a type of step cut and gives a different impression. Because emerald gemstones are prone to chipping,Slightly trim the corners of the rectangle.This led to the creation of a unique cut. The emerald cut is a diamond cut that utilizes this technique. It gives a classic, understated, and elegant impression. While it is generally set vertically, some people enjoy wearing it horizontally for a more casual look.

プリンセスカット

Princess cut
It is a mixed cut that combines the brilliant cut, which emphasizes brilliance, with the step cut, which has a unique atmosphere.The corners of the square are not rounded, but pointed.It is called the Princess Cut. It was named as such because it is perfect for elegant women with the grace of a princess. The diamond retains its sharp impression without rounding the corners of a square, and it is a popular choice for engagement rings because it allows you to enjoy its unique brilliance.


Many customers choose round brilliant cut diamonds, but if you already own a round cut diamond, or if you want a design that's different from everyone else's, we recommend choosing a fancy cut diamond.
Please refer to this page for information on the availability of fancy-cut diamonds.

▼Fancy-cut diamonds

▼Diamonds in stock at Hojudo

We can also search for diamonds that are not listed on our website free of charge, so please don't hesitate to let us know if you have any requests.

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2. Which cutWhich one should I choose?

The defining characteristic of a diamond is, without a doubt, its "brilliance."When choosing a round brilliant cut, you'll ideally want a 3EX (excellent cut) if possible, but of course, 3EX comes at a higher price. You might also consider compromising on the cut if you prioritize carat weight within your budget. Since the ability to discern the difference in cuts varies from person to person, it's difficult to give a definitive standard. However, based on my experience, I will frankly explain what level of cut is desirable for each item, so please use this as a reference.


① In the case of rings including engagement rings

Since we often have the opportunity to look at rings up close,We recommend choosing a cut that is better than those found in other necklaces, earrings, etc.Yes, we do. Especially for commemorative items such as engagement rings, most of our customers at Hojudo choose 3EX (Excellent Cut Grade). In particular, for solitaire (single diamond) rings, the brilliance is more noticeable, so choose the best cut grade possible. Even for fashion rings, we recommend choosing something of Very Good or higher.
With designs such as bezel settings (settings that enclose the diamond), the sparkle isn't as important, so you should be able to enjoy it even if it's just a "Good" rating.
Diamonds can be passed down to your children or grandchildren. You can also use the diamond as is and change its design through remodeling, so we recommend choosing a high-quality diamond as a lifelong investment.


② In the case of pendants or earrings

Pendants and earrings are not as often viewed up close as rings,Some customers choose a cut grade that is slightly lower than that of their ring.The larger the carat, the easier it is to see the difference in cut grade. Also, the difference is more noticeable in solitaire types than halo types. While it varies depending on the carat, design, and individual preferences, you should generally choose something with a cut grade of Good or higher.

異なるデザイン別カラットの見え方


3.diamondRestore your radiancefor?
(Diamond care)

Diamond jewelry tends to lose its sparkle over time.
The main cause of this is oil. Diamonds have a good affinity for oil, and when hand cream or sebum adheres to the surface, light has difficulty penetrating the diamond, causing it to lose its brilliance. Many stores offer free cleaning as part of their after-sales service, so it's best to ask the store where you purchased it. However, since diamonds are hard minerals, you can also clean them properly at home. We will introduce how to care for your diamond, so please refer to this information.

●If you notice the diamond's sparkle has dulled, wipe it with a soft cloth such as chamois leather or eyeglass cleaning cloth.
●If the shine still doesn't return, please try the following steps.

<Items to prepare>
·cup
- Neutral detergents such as dishwashing detergents
• Soft toothbrush
Lukewarm water
- Kitchen paper or a hair dryer with cool air setting

<Instructions>
① Place lukewarm water and the diamond jewelry into a cup.
② Put a small amount of dish soap into the cup.
③ Dip a toothbrush into the cup, take out the diamond jewelry, and wash the diamond by tapping it. The key is to tap it, as rubbing it can cause the prongs holding the diamond to loosen.
④ Rinse with lukewarm water.
⑤ Remove excess moisture using kitchen paper or a hair dryer on the cool setting.
(Avoid using rough towels, as your nails may get caught in the threads, causing your nails to lift or the towel to fray.)


This should restore the shine, so please give it a try.

Diamonds are hard minerals and can be cleaned at home, but some gemstones cannot be cleaned using the methods described above. Be careful if your jewelry contains gemstones other than diamonds.

At Hojudo, we not only clean your jewelry but also provide a complete refinishing service (including the setting of rings, necklaces, etc.), so it will look and feel like new again. The process takes about an hour, so we can return your items to you the same day. Please feel free to stop by.
Furthermore, ring resizing is free of charge for life. Please see below for details.

▼Hojudo's after-sales service

If you'd like to learn more or compare diamonds in person, please feel free to contact us or visit our store.

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4. Summary


  1. ■Cut is an important element that expresses brilliance
  2. ■Only round brilliant cuts are valued.
  3. ■Ratings are in descending order: 3 Excellent → Excellent → Very Good → Good → Fair → Poor
  4. ■ In addition to the round brilliant cut, there are also various other shapes of diamonds known as fancy cuts.
  5. ■ For rings, it's generally recommended to choose a rating of Very Good or higher. For pendants and earrings, it's also recommended to choose a rating of Good or higher.
  6. ■Diamonds are hard minerals, so they can be maintained at home.


5. Hojudodiamond

At Hojudo, we propose jewelry with the intention that it will be used and enjoyed for many years to come.
Because many customers choose the 3EX cut grade, most of our loose gemstone inventory is 3EX.
But don't worry! Our prices are reasonable, so you can purchase diamonds of the same grade and from the same appraisal institution at half to one-third of the market price. In addition to being a wholesale-direct store, we are able to offer these prices through thorough cost reduction by operating as a single store.

We primarily handle diamonds certified by GIA and the Central Gem Laboratory (CGL), and we always have over 100 diamonds in stock with cuts ranging from Good to 3EX. If we don't have a diamond in stock, we can search for it and make suggestions, so please feel free to visit us or contact us.

宝寿堂のダイヤモンド取扱いグレード


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