ダイヤモンドのカットはこう選ぼう!選ぶべきポイントを詳しく解説

Choose your diamond cut! A detailed explanation of the points to choose from



Cutting is the only one of the 4Cs that involves human skill..
Diamonds are said to have "eternal brilliance," and are minerals with a high refractive index that emits a fine sparkle. However, they do not shine when they are in their rough state. How much brilliance can be extracted by carving diamond, the hardest mineral on Earth? This is truly the culmination of human skill.
In addition to the perfectly circular round brilliant cut, there are many other types of diamond cuts. This time, we will introduce diamond cuts, so please use this as reference when choosing a diamond.



1. CutWhat is it?

①Cut evaluation criteria (Cut evaluation is only for round brilliant cut!)

The cutImportant elements that represent brillianceAnd the round shapeRound brilliant cut onlyPlease note that there are no cut standards for other shapes.
Cut is broadly evaluated based on three criteria: overall balance (proportion), symmetry (symmetry), and polish (polish).
Proportions are measured numerically by computer, while symmetry and polish are assessed by human eye.

GIA鑑定書

If the appraisal certificate is issued by a major appraisal agency, the numerical measurement results of the proportions will be shown in a diagram in the report. The polish and symmetry will also be clearly stated, and the cut grade will be determined based on this overall evaluation.
The cut grade is rated on a five-point scale.The brightness is almost perfect. Excellent → Very Good → Good Good → Fair → Poor Symmetry and polish are also evaluated in the same way. If both are Very Good or better, the cut grade is Excellent. If cut, symmetry, and polish are all Excellent, the diamond is rated 3EX (Triple Excellent), the highest cut standard.

ダイヤのカットグレード表


②What is Heart and Cupid (H&C)?

When you look at a diamond with excellent proportions and symmetry through a special scope, you may see eight arrows (cupids) on the table (top) surface and eight hearts on the pavilion (bottom) surface. The Central Gem Laboratory (CGL) patented the Hearts and Cupids (H&C) design, which became widespread. Other appraisal institutions call it Hearts and Arrows (H&A). Also, if an appraisal institution appraises a diamond as H&C, a photograph of the hearts and arrows will be included in the appraisal certificate.
Some dealers explain that "H&C is the best cut," but this is a misunderstanding. H&C can be seen even if the cut standard is not Excellent, as long as it has a certain range of proportions and a certain level of symmetry.The highest cut standard is 3EXAs a result, H&C is positioned as added value.
That being said, "an arrow pierces a heart." That's romantic, isn't it? H&C and H&A cannot be inspected unless you request it during the appraisal. Also, since they cannot be seen once the diamond is set in a setting, if you would like a photo of the H&C, be sure to ask when purchasing the loose diamond.

CGL鑑定書

We mainly deal in GIA diamonds, but we also handle H&C diamonds from the Central Gem Laboratory. Please refer to here for our inventory.

▼H&C diamonds in stock at Hojudo

▼Diamonds in stock at Hojudo

We can also search for diamonds that are not listed on the Hojudo website free of charge, so please feel free to let us know if you have any requests.

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③Types of diamond cuts

Do you think that diamonds only come in round cuts? The round brilliant cut is the cut that brings out the most brilliance, but there are actually many different types of cuts. Any cut other than the round brilliant cut is called a fancy cut. We will introduce some of the fancy cuts below, so please use this as a reference.
ラウンドブリリアントカット

Round brilliant cut
This is the cut you imagine.Perfect circleRound brilliant cut. It has a total of 57 or 58 facets and is a cut that has been carefully calculated to maximize brilliance. The cut standard for the 4Cs is only this round brilliant cut.

オーバルカット

Oval cut
RoundedovalThe oval cut is characterized by its shape. If the diamond is set vertically, it will look refined and elegant. If it is set horizontally, it will create a casual look. Because it is an oval, the ratio of the length to the width varies. Be careful, as the appearance will change greatly depending on the ratio of the lengths.

ペアシェイプ

Pear Shape
PearIt is called a pear shape because it has a shape similar to a teardrop. However, it is also called a teardrop cut because it resembles a teardrop. With a pointed tip and a rounded shape on one side, it is a popular cut among women because it gives a feminine, slender look to the finger. When it comes to rings, the pointed end is usually worn downwards, but recently, many people enjoy wearing them facing upwards.

マーキースシェイプ

Marquise Shape
Long, pointed shapeThis marquise shape is often used in jewelry with petal motifs due to its shape.Marquise means "Marquise," and it is said that the name was inspired by Madame de Pompadour's smile, given the title by King Louis XV. The pointed, slender shape makes your fingers look neat and sharp, making it a great choice for those with long fingers.

ハートシェイプ

Heart Shape
As the name suggests,Heart-shapedThe heart shape gives a feminine impression and is a popular cut among young women.

クッションシェイプ

Cushion Shape
Rectangular shape with rounded cornersThis is a cushion shape. It is also called the pillow cut because of its pillow-like shape. In fact, it was invented in the 16th century and was the mainstream cut until the early 20th century. It gives a soft and feminine impression. There are cushion shapes that are close to square, and also rectangular ones. The atmosphere changes, so please choose according to your preference.

エメラルドカット

emerald cut
All the cuts up to now have been brilliant cuts, which give a dazzling impression with emphasis on brilliance, but the emerald cut is a step cut that gives a different impression.Slightly trim the corners of the rectangleThis gave birth to a unique cut. The emerald cut is a diamond that has adopted this technique. It gives off a classical, calm and elegant impression. It is generally set vertically, but some people also enjoy it horizontally for a more casual look.

プリンセスカット

Princess Cut
It is a mixed cut that combines the brilliant cut that emphasizes brilliance and the step cut that has a unique atmosphere.The corners of the rectangle are sharpened without being cut.It was named princess cut because it is perfect for a woman with a princess-like elegance. The square corners are not rounded off, giving it a sharp impression, and it is a diamond that can be enjoyed for its unique sparkle, making it popular as an engagement ring.


Many customers choose round brilliant cut diamonds, but if you already have a round cut diamond or if you want a design that is different from everyone else's, we recommend choosing a fancy cut diamond.
Please refer to here for information on fancy cut diamond availability.

▼Fancy cut diamond

▼Diamonds in stock at Hojudo

We can also search for diamonds that are not listed on our website free of charge, so please feel free to let us know if you have any requests.

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2. Which cut?Should I choose?

The most distinctive feature of diamonds is their brillianceWhen choosing a round brilliant cut, you want to choose 3EX whenever possible, but of course the price increases. You may also have the option of lowering the cut to prioritize carat weight within your budget. Since the ability to discern differences in cut varies from person to person, it's difficult to give a clear standard. However, based on my experience, I'll frankly explain for each item where a higher cut is better, so please use this as reference.


1. For rings including engagement rings

There are many opportunities to see rings up close,We recommend choosing a cut that is better than other necklaces, earrings, etc.Most Hojudo customers choose 3EX, especially for commemorative items such as engagement rings. In particular, for solitaires (single diamonds), the brilliance is more noticeable, so choose the best cut grade possible. Even for fashion rings, we recommend choosing Very Good or higher.
With designs such as bezel settings (settings that cover the diamond), brilliance is not as important, so you can enjoy it even if it is Good.
Diamonds can be passed down to your children or grandchildren. You can use the diamonds as they are and change the design through remodeling, so we recommend choosing a high-quality ring that will last a lifetime.


②In the case of pendants and earrings

Compared to rings, there are fewer opportunities to look closely at pendants and earrings, soSome customers choose a slightly lower cut grade than the ring.The larger the carat, the easier it is to see the difference in cut grade, and the difference is easier to see with solitaire types than with halo types. While it depends on the carat, design, and individual differences, you should generally choose one that is Good or above.

異なるデザイン別カラットの見え方


3.DiamondRestore the shinefor?
(Diamond care)

As you wear diamond jewelry, it will gradually lose its shine.
The main cause of this is oil. Diamonds react well to oil, and if hand cream or sebum gets on the surface, it becomes difficult for light to penetrate the diamond, dulling its brilliance. Many stores offer free cleaning as part of their aftercare, so it's best to ask the store where you purchased your diamond for this service. However, diamonds are hard minerals, so they can be cleaned thoroughly at home. We'll introduce you to some diamond care methods, so please use them as a reference.

●If you feel that the diamond's shine is starting to dull, wipe it with a soft cloth such as chamois leather or a glasses cleaning cloth.
●If the shine still does not return, try the following steps.

<Items to prepare>
·cup
- Neutral detergents such as dishwashing detergent
・Soft toothbrush
・Lukewarm water
・Kitchen paper or a cold air dryer

<Procedure>
①Put lukewarm water and diamond jewelry in a cup
②Put a small amount of dishwashing detergent into the cup
3. Put a toothbrush into the cup, remove the diamond jewelry, and wash the diamond by tapping it. If you rub it, the prongs holding the diamond in place will come loose, so it is important to wash it by tapping it.
④ Rinse with lukewarm water
⑤ Remove moisture with kitchen paper or a cold air dryer.
(Avoid using rough towels as your nails may get caught in the threads, causing your nails to lift or the towel to fray.)


This should bring back the shine, so give it a try.

Diamonds are hard minerals, so they can be maintained at home, but some gemstones may not be able to be cleaned using the above method. Be careful if your jewelry has other gemstones besides diamonds.

At Hojudo, we not only clean but also provide new finishing (finishing the frames of rings, necklaces, etc.), so your items will look truly brand new again. The process takes about an hour, so we can return your items to you on the same day. Please feel free to drop by.
In addition, ring resizing is free for life. Please see below for details.

▼Hojudo's after-sales service

If you would like to know more or compare diamonds in person, please feel free to contact us or visit our store.

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First, ask by email
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4. Summary


  1. ■Cut is an important factor in expressing brilliance
  2. ■ Only round brilliant cuts are valued
  3. ■The ratings are in descending order: 3Excellent → Excellent → Very Good → Good → Fair → Poor
  4. ■In addition to round brilliant cuts, there are various other diamond shapes called fancy cuts.
  5. ■ For rings, we recommend choosing Very Good or better, and for pendants and earrings, we recommend choosing Good or better.
  6. ■Diamonds are hard minerals, so they can be maintained at home.


5. HojudoDiamond

At Houjudo, we propose jewelry that you can use for many years to come.
Many customers choose the 3EX cut grade, so most of our loose stones in stock are 3EX.
But don't worry! Our prices are reasonable, so you can purchase diamonds of the same grade and from the same appraisal institution at half to one-third the market price. In addition to being a direct wholesale store, we are able to offer such low prices through thorough cost cutting by operating a single store.

We mainly deal in diamonds certified by GIA and the Central Gem Laboratory (CGL), and always have over 100 diamonds in stock, with cuts ranging from Good to 3EX. If there is a diamond that is not in stock, we can search for it and make a suggestion, so please feel free to visit us or contact us.

宝寿堂のダイヤモンド取扱いグレード


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